Having been a loyal customer of Mehak for nearly the past decade, I was hesitant to change my ways by trying Ithaca’s newest Indian restaurant, Shahi Pakwan, when it opened in August. Nevertheless, one day during winter break, my curiosity got the better of me, and I ventured downtown with my good friends Tony Yang ‘19 and Isaiah Gutman ‘19 to give it a try.
Shahi Pakwan is tucked away in a corner of the Gateway Center on State Street, occupying the space that once housed Sticky Rice. Little seems to have changed in terms of decor with new ownership, although the restaurant’s cozy interior seems much cleaner and less cramped than that of Sticky Rice. In comparison with the other three Indian restaurants in Ithaca—Mehak, Sangam, and New Delhi Diamonds—Shahi Pakwan has by far the easiest parking, and I entered the restaurant feeling grateful to not have to face a long walk back to my parked car in the bitter wind.
The friendly waiter, who I later learned was the restaurant’s proprietor, Raaj Singh, situated me and my friends as soon as we arrived; within a few minutes of placing our order, our appetizers had arrived. I ordered the vegetable pakoras, or assorted vegetables coated in a spiced batter and fried. Very often, restaurants tend to undercook pakoras, and I was pleasantly surprised that all of the pakoras were cooked all the way through, with a satisfyingly crisp coating with every bite.
To start, Yang ordered chicken samosas. Although they were well seasoned and their outer shells perfectly golden brown, he noted that the meat was quite dry. Gutman chose the vegetable samosas instead. While they too were well-spiced, the filling appeared to only contain potatoes, a disappointment considering they were advertised as also containing peas. Our appetizers came with three condiments—a refreshing mint chutney, a tangy tamarind chutney, and pickled onions. I was impressed by the consistency of both sauces, which were liquid enough to cling to the appetizers, but not at all diluted or watery.
Soon after finishing our appetizers, our plates were cleared for our entrees. I ordered the shahi paneer, or Indian cottage cheese cooked in a creamy, spicy sauce. I asked for my entree to be cooked at a medium spice level, but my first impression of the dish was its incredible heat. Despite being accustomed to eating spicy food, this dish was about the highest level I could tolerate without discomfort, and I’d suggest being cautious with spice levels when ordering.
However, aside from the spice, I was very impressed by the quality of my meal. The paneer was cut into small, bite-sized pieces, and the flavor of the complex, creamy gravy seeped all the way through. Although this is a butter- and cream-based dish, it didn’t feel too heavy or rich, unlike at many other Indian restaurants; instead, it tasted homemade, a welcome change from most Indian restaurant fare.
Yang and Gutman each ordered a chicken dish—Yang chose the butter chicken, which was coincidentally cooked in the same gravy as the shahi paneer, while Gutman chose the chicken tikka masala, or pieces of chicken cooked in a creamy tomato sauce. Both dishes contained many pieces of tender chicken, and although the spice level in the butter chicken was on par with the shahi paneer, the chicken tikka masala, also ordered at a medium, was considerably less spicy. These dishes, both staples of Indian restaurant menus, also tasted balanced and homemade. Aside from the spice, both entrees received abundant praise from my friends.
While all three dishes came with rice, we ordered garlic naan to pair with our entrees. This to me was the most impressive aspect of the meal—I’ve had many a doughy, thick naan, but this one was perfectly cooked. It was so good, in fact, that I didn’t even try the rice, though my friends reported that the rice was also well cooked.
Overall, my experience at Shahi Pakwan was a very positive one. While my initial impressions of the space were off putting, the food and hospitality more than made up for it. I also found the pricing quite reasonable—while eating Indian is certainly more expensive than most cuisines, especially when ordering an appetizer and breads, the pricing was no more expensive than at any of the other three Indian restaurants in town.
Shahi Pakwan also offers something that neither of the three others can claim—it offers dosas, a savory crepe that no restaurant in Ithaca serves; dosas are among my favorite foods. I was apprehensive to try dosas, a South Indian specialty, at a North Indian restaurant. However, after experiencing the lighter, more balanced style of cooking at Shahi Pakwan, I’ll be sure to order one my next time there. If you want to try a new regional cuisine from India, or if you want to enjoy your favorites made in a more home-style way, I’d highly recommend Shahi Pakwan for your next outing.