In Press Bay Alley, in the center of downtown Ithaca, lies a culinary oxymoron: typical American fried chicken on Monday through Friday, and on Saturdays, five-course fine dining. Overseen by Chef Daniel Medina, North Folk’s authentic combination of local culture and international inspiration offers a unique experience for even the most experienced foodie. Definitely hipster, but not overly pretentious, this restaurant is without a doubt one of the very best Ithaca has to offer.
Notably, the kitchen exclusively serves ingredients naturally found within a three hundred mile radius, which means that the classics are always getting a new twist. In the traditional coffee cake, for example, North Folk substitutes coffee for chicory root, which grows in abundance in New York. The dishes are inspired by many different culinary traditions, but they always remain grounded in American culture. For instance, for my “bread course” on a wintry Saturday night, I was served a foie gras donut with maple and black garlic. That dichotomy between a typical American dish and culinary refinement is pretty representative of North Folk’s vision as a whole.
My favorite dish was the smoked rabbit dumpling, which was steeped in a butter popcorn sauce. I can’t describe how magical it was to be sitting in a high-end restaurant and instantly be transported to a favorite childhood movie theater. It was more than just the taste of popcorn—it was as if the very essence of popcorn, all that buttery salty goodness, had been perfectly distilled on my plate. I found the steak dish to be slightly less successful, with a certain toughness to the meat and lack of clarity in the flavors. With this small exception, then, the night was deliciously successful and an experience I can’t recommend highly enough.
All the courses are served at the same time with the regularity of clockwork, and each one is preceded by a brief introduction by Medina, in which he articulates his vision for the plates and the ingredients used within them. At the start of each, he opens his arms and waits as the chatter of the customers slowly diminishes, then begins speaking in a quiet, measured voice with all the love and patience of a well-seasoned artisan.
North Folk’s ambiance is very intimate, with only ten or so customers at a time, and Medina will often stay behind and chat after the meal. When my family and I spoke with him, he told us that he was a small-town kind of guy. It is clear that this connection with the people and the community, which is felt so keenly in the way he interacts with customers, that professional balance of humility, humor, and precision, plays an essential part in every aspect of the dining experience.
The restaurant space itself is incredibly minimalistic, with whitewashed walls, exposed ceiling beams, and an open view into the kitchen. To use the restroom, clients have to walk outside into the alley and use the one shared by all Press Bay businesses (no small feat in the colder temperatures!). This rustic authenticity is both intriguing and slightly theatrical, reminiscent of a stage set for an avant-garde performance piece or the meeting place for a recitation of beat poetry.
The price, at around one hundred dollars per person (excluding drinks), is certainly something to keep in mind when dining at North Folk, as is the limited space available. Reservations must be made weeks in advance, and the timing is strictly regulated to ensure everything is running smoothly and at the same time, with dinner starting at five o’clock and eight o’clock sharp. That said, I highly encourage everyone, if they have the means or the inclination, to head over to North Folk. It is the perfect place for a birthday, anniversary, or other special occasion, and a scrumptious opportunity to expand and stimulate the palate.